Lobuche Peak at 6119m is a popular trekking peak in the Everest region. It is an attractive summit and offers various routes for climbing and is one of the most challenging. The normal route for climbing is over the South Ridge. Lobuche East Peak consists of several small summits and the true summit requires climbing steep snow and ice slopes to the top from the summit ridge.
We follow the main Everest Base Camp trekking route up to Pheriche and then trek to Dughla. Lobuche Peak Base Camp will be set up at 4950m near a lake in a rocky hollow at the base of the glaciated South-West Face. The views of Amadablam, Cholatse, Thamserku, Kantega and Tawache are superb from here. We climb steep stone terraces and snow slopes just below the main glaciers on the South-West Face of Lobuche East. We climb steep snow and ice slopes using fixed ropes and get access to the ridge overlooking Lobuche and the Khumbu Glacier where we fix the high camp.
We follow the sharp snow ridge to the summit ridge. We then follow the route north-west towards the main summit, passing several small snow bumps and reach a notch. We then further climb steep and quite difficult snow slopes to the true summit. The peak can be climbed from the East Face by climbing a dark pyramid of slab rock and join the South Ridge to get to the summit.