Lower Mustang Trekking

 After Breakfast fly to Pokhara city. Afternoon explore around

The trek begins from Jomsom after a spectacular flight up the deep Kali andaki river valley with great views of the Dhaulagiri and Annapurna massifs on either side. Jomsom is the Administrative district headquarters and has a police check-post, radio communication with Kathmandu, an Army camp and the STOL airstrip. One can immediately notice the change in scenery – the scene is trans-Himalayan, arid and rocky, but grand. The barrenness is relieved by splashes of green cultivation. After crossing the wooden bridge to the east bank of the river Kali Gandaki

The trail passes through the village to the mani walls at the north end. Here pass the police check-post, descend briefly and begin a steep climb up to the broad, loose trail contouring along the east bank gently ascending, descending. A little later bypass Tiri on the other side where the route from Charkabhot (Dolpo) joins the village. Further up the river Gyalungbo drains into the Kali Gandaki and toward noon the village of Tangbeh is sighted. As steep descent is taken and a gentle climb leads to Tangbeh where a lunch stop is made. the trail continues through the village and further up to a group of settlements known as Chusang. ruins of castles litter the hill-tops behind the village, and prehistoric cave dwellings can be seen on the west side of the river high among the arid, wind-eroded, grey, red and ochre cliffs.

The Narsinga khola from the east joins the Kali Gandaki here; the stream is crossed and the tail follows a stretch of the river bank, narrow at parts, skirts the edge where the river has eroded the banks. A new iron bridge is crossed over the Kali Gandaki emerging from a tunnel. More caves are sighted among the cliff walls. Then a steep climb on the other side leads to the village of Tsaili. Approximately six and a half hours.

From Tsaili it is a steep climb and one sees the village of Gyakar across the deep ravine on the other side. The trail ascends through steep sections alternating with graded sections. There are stupendous cliffs and through the ravine the river Gyakar contours around the hill and over the Chotare Lapcha pass (3500m/11480ft). From here contour gradually to Samar village. The village is named after the red outcrop of rocks to the east. From the pass excellent views of the Damodar Himal, Thorongtse, the Nilgiris and Tilicho can be seen. Samar is a small village among poplar trees which line the irrigation canals that water terraced fields spread out below. Continue along trail through the village to the 3 chortens on the ridge. Descend to cross another stream before the climb to Samar La is taken. After the pass a gradual slope and pass a few houses, climb up to another pass and to a teashop and beyond to Yamda with its single bhatti (teashop). From Yamda climb to the Dawa Lapcha pass (3860m/12660ft) with its large cairn and prayer flags before descending to Syangmuche and its bhatti. Ascend to the next pass, the Lhakpa la (3680m/12070ft) with its chorten and the village of Ghiling can be seen spread out below. Ghiling is a large village with two gompas; it was once an important village for the traders enroute from Tibet. The trail divides further down and the upper trail is taken (the lower one goes to the village) until a few Tamang houses of Tamaghyang are reached. Approximately six and a half hours.

The trail passes Chorten Karpu a slight gradient to Chaiti with its bhatti and further up the path from the village of Ghiling joins our trail. A steep climb up to the Tseti La pass (3825m/ 12546ft) then descend along the trail until it forks, the upper trail goes to the village of Gemi and the lower trail continues down to the river with its suspension bridge.

Take the lower trail, cross the bridge, and climb up to the other side where there is a long mani wall about 400ft consisting of round stones with mani inscriptions, cemented together by mud into the wall. From the mani wall climb steeply for about 2 hours to the Al Lapcha pass (3715m/ 12185ft). Very good views of Tilicho, Nilgiri peaks, Thorongtse and the Damodar Himal from the pass. Gradually descend until a fork In the trail is met, the upper trail is taken and Tsarang is sighted. Maran, another village, lies to the north and can be seen as we approach Tsarang. Tsaran has a Dzong which formerly housed a King of the region. The dzong can be accessed by a side entrance where dangerous wooden steps are climbed up to the chapel room which contains some fine gilt statues and volumes of Tibetan scriptures brought from Tibet. The scriptures are bound by wooden planks which are intricately carved with deities and motifs. The floor above has the “Defender’s Room” with a standing image of a personal divinity dressed in ancient Tibet armour and various medieval weapons, the beak and claws of a pelican, and a dried and blackened human hand.

The story goes that the King commissioned an architect to build his fort and palace and after it was completed ordered his hand to be cut off so that he would not be able to duplicate it. The Sakya Gompa nearby has several monks living and the main hall has some fine bronze statues of Maitreya, smaller images of Sakyamuni and Vajradhara and numerous splendid thankas. Approximately six hours.

After crossing the stream north of Tsaran the trail climbs towards the northeast, crests and contours towards the northwest. Two hours walk along a straight stretch brings one to a chorten. The trail is very sandy and from here a slight gradient for 45 minutes, descend for a while and walk east along flat terrain. There are high sandstone cliffs with numerous caves to the east. a gentle climb for about an hour along flat terrain and one arrives at Rober Tsla (3775m/ 12382ft) the final pass into Lo Mantang.

The first village seen from the pass is Namgyal which lies slightly to the northwest of Lo Mantang. As one passes through and begins descent Lo Mantang itself is seen to the right. It is the only waled village on this route. Approximately five hours.

On the return journey we trek back to Tsarang for lunch and continue to the village of Gem which was bypassed on the walk in. A visit to the monastery is worthwhile.

Follow the trail over the passes and camp at Samar.

Drop down steeply to Tsaili and down to the Kali Gandaki to cross the bridge again over the river emerging from the tunnel in the sandstone cliffs. Trek along the east bank with the wind now sweeping strongly against you. Reach Kagbeni late in the afternoon.

Trek along the east bank, or river bed occasionally, until Jomsom is reached by lunchtime.

Fly from Jomsom to Pokhara (and onto Kathmandu).